7 - Leap Year - Feb 29

We like to think we got an extra day today, it being February 29 in a leap year. Not a bad place to spend leap day, at any rate! This morning's landing was at Port Lockroy, an old British Antarctic Survey station that is now a museum and the official Antarctic 'Post Office.' It being the end of summer, the postcards we posted there from Antarctica will sit there until the 4 ladies who now operate the facility come back in November. Gives new meaning to 'snail mail!'

Port Lockroy is a natural harbour on the Antarctic Peninsula of the British Antarctic Territory. Port Lockroy, discovered in 1904, was named after Edouard Lockroy, a French politician and Vice President of the Chamber of Deputies, who assisted Jean-Baptiste Charcot in obtaining government support for his French Antarctic Expedition. It was used for whaling between 1911 and 1931 and British military operations (Operation Tabarin) during World War II and then continued to operate as a British research station until 1962.

In 1996 Port Lockroy was renovated and is now a museum and post office operated by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust. It is designated as Historic Site no. 61 under the Antarctic Treaty and one of the most popular tourist destinations in Antarctica. Proceeds from the small souvenir shop fund the upkeep of the site and other historic sites and monuments in Antarctica.[1]






Back on the ship for lunch, we were seated right beside the dessert table. The Maitre'D saw us helping ourselves and commented, 'Dessert within reach' We thought it pretty well summed things up, this incredible adventure in such a remote and inhospitable place, with 5-Star service to boot. Shackleton and Darwin should have had it so good!

Dessert Within Reach


And the view from the dining room


As Jan's dad would have said, 'If you've ever had a finer meal, you need not pay the bill.'

The afternoon landing was on Cuverville Island. Cuverville Island or Île de Cavelier de Cuverville is a dark, rocky island lying in Errera Channel between Arctowski Peninsula and the northern part of Rongé Island, off the west coast of Graham Land. Cuverville Island is located at 64°41′S 62°38′W. Cuverville Island was discovered by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition (1897–1899) under Adrien de Gerlache, who named it for J.M.A. Cavelier de Cuverville (1834–1912), a vice admiral of the French Navy.

In summer Cuverville is often home to a well-sized rookery of gentoo penguins.

The highlight of this landing was returning to the ship... the Zodiac driver, one of the ace members of the expedition team, took us through numerous floating icebergs... the lighting was incredible and we got up close and personal with the icebergs. You actually have to be very careful because once an iceberg starts to break down, it can happen fast... it all collapses into the water and can cause huge waves, and even pull a little Zodiac under.

Remember to click on any photo to see the larger, high res photo...








This next video is of Gentoo Penguins learning the facts of life. The young penguins here are only 4 months old and already almost full adult size. They chase their parents like this to try and get some food. But soon the parents must leave them to fend for themselves. Tough Love!




We were hungry so we ran down the mother ship and had a fine meal and some not-so-tough-love. Pepper on your salad, Sir Mike?

The we topped off the day with a 50's / 60's Icebreaker in the lounge... some dancing to oldies. The younger guides seemed to have as good a time as we 'oldies' did. Carlos was an excellent DJ.

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6 - Shopping - Yes, Shopping!

This morning's landing was at Damoy Point. Damoy Point (64°49′S 63°32′WCoordinates: 64°49′S 63°32′W) is a headland 0.5 nautical miles (1 km) west-northwest of Flag Point, the north entrance point to the harbor of Port Lockroy, on the west side of Wiencke Island in the Palmer Archipelago. It was discovered and named by the French Antarctic Expedition, 1903–05, under Jean-Baptiste Charcot.[1]






This afternoon's landing was at Palmer Station, one of 3 US research stations on the continent. Palmer Station, on Anvers Island, is Antarctica's only US station north of the Antarctic Circle. Initial construction of the station finished in 1968. The station, like the other US Antarctic stations, is operated by the United States Antarctic Program. Palmer Station is staffed by about 45 scientists and support personnel in the 3 months of Antarctic Summer. There are only about 15 people at the station in the 9 long winter months.

And we shopped for souvenirs! Due to the delicacy and importance of their work, Palmer Station allows only 12 groups per year to land and tour the facility. So, of course they sell some souvenirs, the proceeds going to help fund the work at the station.







We topped off the day with a hot tub, with Wynola from Fairbanks. I think only one other person did a hot tub during our time on the ship. Jan and I did one more soak the night we set course back to Ushuaia, watching the water slosh out of the tub with the rocking of the ship... yeehaw! Wynola, from Fairbanks, knows of Lucy Fairbanks from Fairbanks... and Jan is related to Lucy Fairbanks, having visited her on a family trip to Alaska when Jan was a teenager. Small world!



Our traditional 'Feet Up' photo... ahhhhhh!


And a bit of silliness this evening. The guides billed it as a Color Contest, wherein we were separated into 4 groups and each group put as many blue clothing items as possible on one member of the group. Then, to the sound of striptease music, the clothing items were shed, the winner being the person with the most items. I think our group came in 3rd out of 4.





Hey, there's not a lot of night life here in Antarctica! Stay tuned to see a fun clip our expedition team showed us of an entry into the annual Antarctica Film Festival. Winters are very long here on the white continent!

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5 - Setting Foot On Our 7th Continent

This morning's excursion in the Zodiacs was not an actual landing, but rather a tour around the shores of the islands and among the icebergs.






Between landings today, we got to watch a large pod of Orca (Killer) Whales from the ship (Orca's are actually dolphins)...



The afternoon landing was on the actual continent, our 7th continent, at Nekko Harbor. What an incredible experience. No sounds other than the birds and penguins and the sloshing of the waves... no artificial lights other than those of our ship... no smells other than the crisp salt air and penguin poo. The night skies, when it's clear, are incredible, pure and unobscured by the occupations of man.

Neko Harbor is an inlet on the Antarctic Peninsula on Andvord Bay, situated on the west coast of Graham Land. Neko Harbor was discovered by Belgian explorer Adrien de Gerlache in the early 20th century. It was named for a Norwegian whaling boat, the Neko, which operated in the area between 1911 and 1924.







Nekko Harbor


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4 - Aitcho - Gezundheit!

Land Ahoy!


The passage from Ushuaia to the South Shetland Islands and the tip of the Anrarctica Peninsula is about 600 miles. The Corinthinan II travels at about 14 knots (16 mph). We made such good time on the Drake Lake that we were treated to an extra landing on Aitcho Island this evening when we arrived at our destination. We were scheduled for 8 landings, including one on the peninsula itself... weather permitting, as we were constantly reminded. One previous trip had such bad weather that all landings had been canceled due to weather. Antarctica, a desert actually, is not only the coldest place on the planet, but also the windiest. Jan and I like to think we have good weather karma, as we are fortunate in our travels to almost always have perfect weather. Carlos had told us that we all needed to think positive about the weather. We ended up getting all 8 scheduled landings, as well as the bonus landing on Aitcho Island.

The Aitcho Islands (‘Aitcho’ standing for ‘H.O.’ i.e. ‘Hydrographic Office’) are a group of minor islands on the west side of the north entrance to English Strait separating Greenwich Island and Robert Island in the South Shetland Islands, Antarctica, which are situated between Dee Island to the south and Table Island to the north. The group is separated from Dee Island and Sierra Island to the southwest by Villalón Passage (62°24′48.3″S 59°46′12.3″W). The area was visited by early 19th century sealers operating from nearby Clothier Harbour. During the austral summer the islands are often visited by Antarctic cruise ships with tourists who land to watch wildlife.

For our landings, we 'suited up' in our warm clothes and boarded Zodiacs from the rear of the ship using a strict protocol so we didn't end up in the frigid water. Our rubber boots were kept in lockers and had to be cleaned and sterilized following each landing to prevent tracking foreign plant and animal life into this pristine environment. When we reached shore in the Zodiacs, we disembarked over the side in several inches of water since there are obviously no docks or ports here. Here we are all ready for our first adventure ashore...





Our first landing, Aitcho Island
A feeling we will never forget!


The penguins have not learned to fear man here in this protected environment. We literally walked among them, treading lightly and not engaging them... though they were often curious and came right up to us, even pecking at us or walking between our legs.



What manner of beast is this?



Penguins, penguins everywhere!
Remember, click any photo to see the larger, high res photo...




Penguins swimming... graceful...


Penguins walking... funny!


The White Continent






Called the White Continent for obvious reasons, the countless shades and hues of whites and blues and grays belie the title. One of the first artists to come here and try to capture the beauty on canvas had brought only white and black paints with him. On his return, he brought every color EXCEPT white!

Jan and I tried to do a hot tub tonight, but the wind was blowing so hard and, with the rocking of the ship, the tub was only half full and not very warm. Somehow, though, it didn't ruin our first day in this wonderland!

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